CHAMELEON CARE GUIDE

Chameleons come from a variety of climates and locations including Asia, Africa, Europe, The Middle East, with nearly half coming from Madagascar. Chameleons are carnivores with their staple diet being primarily insects. These unique creatures also come in a variety of colors and sizes. They range from two inches all the way up to around thirty inches in length. The life span of a Chameleon, unfortunately, is quite short. Most species live anywhere from a few years up to about ten years depending on their care.

Chameleons are considered to be a more advanced reptile as far as their care and upkeep goes. As you will learn in this guide, recreating the conditions in which they originate can be a little more difficult. Chameleons make great pets, but steps must be taken in order for them to live happy healthy lives.

FUN FACTS:

• Their eyes move independently, which means they can look in two different directions at the same time.
• They have a very long tongue they use to "shoot" their prey with while feeding. Some can extend their tongues nearly twice the length of their body. 
• Chameleons use their tails to help them climb and balance.
• If you are looking for a pet that likes to be handled, a Chameleon is probably not for you. Some like people and some don't.
• There are an estimate of 160 different species of Chameleon.

CHOOSING A CHAMELEON:

When it comes to choosing a Chameleon as a pet the first thing you should consider is getting one that was bred in captivity. The reason behind this is that they tend to be more hardy and able to handle harsher conditions. If they are caught in the wild they can be stressed easily and could possibly be carrying parasites.

Nest you want to look over the Chameleons and make sure they have bright clear eyes and are alert. Often times if a Chameleon spends a lot of time during the day with their eyes closed they could be sick. You also want to make sure they are able to grasp onto branches and climb. Make sure their toes are working properly. Also check the Chameleons' skin for signs of wounds, injuries or bruises.

HOUSING:

Chameleons are solitary creatures. Adult Chameleons should never be housed together with other Chameleons unless it is a breeding pair. Even then, they are only left together for about a day at a time.

The requirements for housing a Chameleon include: Proper cage size, lighting, moisture and humidity, and climbing accessories.

First, lets start with cage size. For an adult Chameleon you should have a minimum of 2 feet by 2 feet by 4 feet tall. Babies and juveniles can start out in a smaller habitat roughly 16 inches by 16 inches by 30 inches tall.

LIGHTING:

The next aspect of housing your new Chameleon is lighting. Chameleons require two forms of light to survive. They need a basking bulb which is their heat light and a UVA/UVB bulb which provides the proper rays in order for their bodies to use the calcium and other vitamins they get from their food. Be sure to light your cage for 12 hours per day and turn them off for 12 hours to provide a rest period for your Chameleon. Your closest perch should come to within 6 to 8 inches of your lights.

HUMIDITY:

Chameleon humidity needs to be about 50% or higher. This can generally be maintained by misting the cage at least twice daily or providing an appropriate misting system.

TEMPERATURE:

Temperature is very important when it comes to Chameleon habitats. Room temperature or around 72 to 80 degrees F is best for the cool areas of your cage. For the basking spot you should maintain temps of around 85 to 90 degrees F. Nighttime temps can drop as low as the mid to high 40s.

SUBSTRATE:

The easiest substrate to use for the bottom of your enclosure is either paper towels or nothing at all. Substrate can hold parasites and bacteria and normally should be avoided. For those that absolutely must have something you can use coco fiber or sphagnum moss as a substrate.

FEEDING:

The most popular insects fed to Chameleons today are definitely crickets. They are the easiest insect to get in your local area. Check pet stores, bait shops, and even Walmart during certain times of the year. While crickets are good for a staple diet, the key to a healthy nutritious diet is variety. Offer your lizzards a variety of insects easily obtained online right to your front door. Check out our "FEEDERS" tab for information about the various insects available for your Chameleon. They enjoy mealworms, wax worms, horn worms, dubia, fruit flies, and others.

Chameleons also enjoy a variety of fruits and vegetables. Try greens such as kale, romaine lettuce, and other leafy greens like collar and mustard greens. They also like diced zucchini and squash. Fruits can include blueberries, apple, pear, and strawberries. While not all Chameleons will eat the items above, try some with your Chameleon and see which ones they like to eat. Again, variety is key with it comes to Chameleon diet.

How much should I feed my Chameleon? Well, baby to juvenile Chameleons should eat at least twice per day. Adults often times will only eat every other day. They should be fed as many insects as they will eat in a 5 to 10 minute period.

WATER:

Chameleons generally do not drink standing water. In the wild they sip dew and rain droplets from
the leaves of the trees they live in. The best way to provide the appropriate amount of water is to equip your habitat with an automatic mister or drip system. Search Google for homemade watering systems for your Chameleon. The easiest way is to mist your cage with a spray bottle twice per day for about 20 to 60 seconds according to the size of your habitat.

SUPPLEMENTS:

When feeding insects to your Chameleon they should be dusted with Vitamins and Calcium. Chameleons should have their insects dusted with calcium 2 to 3 times per week and vitamins once every two weeks.